Traveling Monkeys

Stories and photos documenting the daily life of two traveling monkeys.


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So long, t-shirt

So long, for now, t-shirt. Wow, I will miss you. I have worn you through many, many an occasion, whether appropriate or not. And you always made me look good. You’ve aged well, you lucky t-shirt.

Whenever I put you on, you would hug my shoulders just so, but allow for room to breathe. You were never the cause of any embarrassment, any uncomfortable wardrobe malfunctions. You rarely stained and did your best to come clean if you did. You stuck through… in thickness or thinness. You expanded effortlessly after countless good meals and likewise snuggled around a growling tummy. You gave me room when I wanted, to shimmy or shake, to bend or run. You were never scratchy when I went in for a hug or fell asleep in you. You always, always made grey look good.

We’ve been a lot of places together, haven’t we? We took a road trip together from New York to LA. You always looked good after a long drive or first thing in the morning. We went to Japan and you visited many izakayas with me. They were good, weren’t they? We traveled to South Africa and went on a long hike up a steep mountain. And recently you even braved the somewhat imperfect space inside my backpack to travel all around South America with me. Sorry for not washing you so much and using those huge, terrible industrial dryers. You did your best not to pill up or wear out. 

I will miss you so. But I am traveling to India and China, places where showing your hips and your boobs is not as well excepted as the places we’ve been together. Or, rather, it may mean something a bit different if we’re seen together. People just won’t understand you, or our relationship. I know it’s silly. You’re not a loud t-shirt, you’re not real offensive. But I have only a bit of space to carry all my things, and I could not bear the thought of disposing you on the road if we couldn’t be seen together. So forgive me, will ya? We will reconvene when I return. Promise. Unless, of course, you sneak into my suitcase when no one is looking? And, well, we can always dance around the room together. XOXOX

For a visit

Seeing friends is the best part of coming home. Much love to Brian, Alicair, Fiona and baby Wendy. We’ll see you soon. 

This means “I had a good birthday” in sleep speak.

This means “I had a good birthday” in sleep speak.

It’s mah 40th birthday

Matt has decided since I turned 30 on the 31st, he needs an epic birthday. So today is Matt’s honorary 40th.

It was a good one, by all accounts, and he testifies to feeling nearly a decade younger. There was birthday cake for breakfast, men doing some hardcore tree climbing, a 2 1/2 hour wintry hike through People’s Forest (strangely there were no people to be found), and homemade free range burgers and sweet potato fries. Unfortunately we followed that up with Eastern Promises, which Matt somehow remembered as NOT being (bloody) depressing. Oh well, you can’t win ‘em all. We’re going to go get a pint to wash it away and then listen to the rain pitter patter on the roof.

Tomorrow we’re off to meet baby Wendy in Boston and then on Saturday Mama Arruda. In a few short days we’re off to India! Hellz yea. 

You have a few more hours to send out a lil’ well wish. 

A bombardier ride in Yellowstone

For one beautiful, clear day we entered Yellowstone from the West entrance in this bombardier coach, below. Under the expert guidance of our Irish coachman and guide, Mike, we drove south into the park around 10am. We passed elk grazing on the banks of rivers. We followed eagles - mostly bald - as they dove after swans, geese and Canadian ducks in the rivers, and waited until they’d perched on a nearby lodgepole to take a closer look. We passed by a few other bombadiers, everyone standing on their seats and peering out the sunroof for a closer look at a wild creature. We also visited a number of Yellowstone’s more permanent features - namely hot springs and geysers - throughout the park. Steam wafted off the boiling water, sometimes misting in our faces and making it difficult to see. What we did see of the algae and bacteria was a more wintry and cool color scheme - deep blues and greens - as opposed to the reds and yellows we’d seen on our previous trip. And of course we stopped by Old Faithful and spent those explosive 5 minutes watching the water spurt high up into the air. 

Around the side of Old Faithful, Mike showed us the bones of a buffalo calf who had been knocked into one of the springs by a mother buffalo who was protecting her own calf. Next to it was Chinese Spring, where Japanese launderers from the nearby hotel used to wash the clothes with a wooden paddle. 

As we exited the park around 6, the sun was slowly setting behind the hills, the lodgepole pines sticking up like stubbly beards on their ridges. We watched a herd of buffalo, like looming statues against the neighboring hills as their made their slow, circular process looking for grasses in the snow. We also stopped for a coyote as it padded slowly down the road and slipped into a snowbank.

The whole time Mike told us stories of life in Montana, his family and old tales of Yellowstone. We learned about the dumping grounds and old cabins from when the military ran the park. We also learned about the interplay between park employees and visitors - how the die-hard fans of springs and geysers help to inform the employees, who spend much less time with these features. He told us about the importance of bear spray when you’re in the backyard of grizzly bears (it saved his life!).

The coach itself made for an old-world feel as we tracked along, sometimes skidding and sometimes bumping on our front skis and rear metal treads. While we think the black-and-white photos below suit her shiny metal nicely, you can picture Kitty as she was, a nice candied apple red. Mike liked comparing her to his wife, also a fiery redhead.

It was as good a day as any, tracking wild creatures through Yellowstone in our bombardier under the big, winter sky. 

Kitty.

Mike.

These poles are made for walking.

Looking at birdies.

Immature bald eagle. The eagles usually hunt fowl on the rivers, gradually moving upstream over the course of a day.

When we parked for a pit stop, a bunch of snowmobilers and other guides came up to take a peek inside our bombardier. They were so jealous, they slammed the door without saying hi!

Two important things when snow braving Yellowstone in winter: binoculars and blankets.

The blue shadow of winter light.

These white-footed trees were one of our favorites on our last visit. The white comes from silica being soaked up into the tree from the rhyolite lava flow, which is also responsible for forming geysers like Old Faithful. The silica replaces the wood, slowly petrifying it.

Steam coming off of a hot spring. Mike warned us about not getting our feet wet by telling a story of a group of guys who visited the spring. Their dog bounded out of the car and jumped in, so one of guys ran after it and jumped in. Then a second guy in the troupe followed suit to save his friend, but as he went to touch him, the first guy’s skin melted off. Both dog and first rescuer died, and the second was left with only one arm and no legs. Watch out! The bones of both guys were removed, but the dog’s remain.

Ice crystals over silica.

Hot spring. The bison like to come here to keep warm in the winter.

These pines sometimes can have males cones, female cones and female fire cones (pyro germinating ones). Needless to say, they’re pretty prevalent. 

Partially melted and refrozen snow.

Algae awesome. In summer this algae turns brighter reds, oranges and yellows.

Old Faith—what?!

Fallen trees. Nature does not always pick up after herself.

Dusk.

Cruising on the way back, towards the West entrance.

So many things to see!

Coyote - in Wyoming, you don’t pronounce the ‘e.’ This little guy is preyed upon by the many wolves that have been reintroduced into Yellowstone. Researchers had projected that of the reintroduced wolf pack, only the Alpha dogs would breed in Yellowstone, based on the a reintroduction program they’d studied in another state. But within 5 years in Yellowstone, A-E dogs in the pack have been breeding. Due to the large sizeof the pack, they’ve killed off all but 130 of the elk herd (originally numbering around 16k). Their original projections didn’t expect these kinds of numbers for another 45 years. Thanks, science.

Buffalo tracks at dusk.

Aus, with iPhone game in hand. Whatchu playing?

New Years in Jackson, WY

We spent the close of 2011 out in Jackson Hole. Since we were there in 2010 we’ve been hoping to return and see some of its wintry wonder. Our first foray in Jackson was brief, with a bison burger at the Cowboy and a night camping under the Tetons. We inappropriately fitted it all to the tune of Johnny Cash’s Jackson. Yes, yes, we know. This New Years my parents and Aus braved the cold with us - what?!, no beach in winter?! - and we continued on with the Jackson tune. Feel free to hum along as you read.

While we didn’t do anything outrageous like heliski, there were many reasons to pile on the snow gear and head out into the dry, chilly air. We took snowmobiles to Granite Hot Springs where we dunked our frozen mitts in the outdoor pool. We huddled under brightly-colored wool blankets on our carriage ride through the National Elk Refuge, a broad expanse against the hills with 2,800 elk roaming about.

We drove to Grand Targhee for some skiing in their fresh powder (Jackson had very little), and I outgrew my snowplow after some lessons on the bunny slopes. Matt, Aus and I felt we could almost reach out and touch Grand Teton from the top of the ski mountain; there were also views into the border of Idaho and off into Montana. Targhee is more of a locals mountain, and on the day we were there, it was filled with pre-schoolers fearlessly cruising around on their mini, 2’ skis.

But the real highlight was a day tour of Yellowstone in an old 1956 Bombardier snow coach named Kitty with our Irish guide, Mike. In addition to the gorgeous natural features of Yellowstone, we spotted elk, bison, bald eagles, and coyote through the coach’s two sun roofs - Dad is still holding out for a wolf! Mike also regaled us with stories of cowboys, brain-tanning and his red-headed mormon wife. He was a wonderful wilderness guide.

On our final day, we cruised slowly by Bighorn, nuzzling up against each other in fields outside the Elk Refuge, and took a drive into the Grand Teton National Park. When we weren’t picnicking, we made sure to get in some of the local steak, burgers, and river fish that Jackson has on offer. Some of our favorites were Trio, the Mangy Moose (in Teton Village) and Rendezvous Bistro. We’ll be posting the Yellowstone photos next. Enjoy!

The view at dusk from outside our suburban-style cabin at Spring Creek Ranch.

Snowmobiles en route to Granite Hot Springs.

Granite Hot Springs. Matt had to hop onto my snowmobile after his wouldn’t start and we had to — gasp — leave it at the Hot Springs. There was also the one hour debacle in the packed parking lot of the trailhead where Matt attempted to park the ginormous trailer we had rented while having no space to turn around. A couple of burly Wyoming men finally came by and helped unhitch and turn the sucker around by hand! But it was all worth it for that dip in the outdoor pool as the snow was just coming down.

Tree tunnels on our ride back. 

Birthday wishes at Rendezvous Bistro.

Harvey chillin’ on the 1st.

Frizz head.

Elk Refuge carriage ride with some beautiful draft horses.

A path through the Refuge.

Good antlers; bad antlers.

Whatcha looking at?

A wintry sky.

View from above the National Wildlife Museum. It was an incredible display of wildlife art, including a whole room of Rungius and an exhibit on George McLean.

Bighorn sheep.

The majestic Amangani Resort.

Snake River.

Big sky. 

We’re going to Jackson (Hole) and we’re taking Harvey with us. As a PI he’s accustomed to traveling in stealth.

We’re going to Jackson (Hole) and we’re taking Harvey with us. As a PI he’s accustomed to traveling in stealth.

Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas, happy holidays, or whatever strikes your fancy. Also, welcome Harvey, our newest - muppet - family member. He’s a PI from Fort Lauderdale, Fl. He adores cabaret and shrimp cocktail. He’s watching you. 

And the jury says? It’s toasty and pillowy soft. It’s so smooth you almost don’t realize what your eating is cold. Matt ate his toasted marshmallow custard ice cream with his eyes half closed.

And the jury says? It’s toasty and pillowy soft. It’s so smooth you almost don’t realize what your eating is cold. Matt ate his toasted marshmallow custard ice cream with his eyes half closed.

Just made toasted marshmallow ice cream w/ homemade marshmallows and an egg custard base. Wow. It reminds me of my first real egg custard in Maine.
Mom says if you’re going to make your own ice cream, you just *have* to do it up right with custard. Next up, sugar punkin’. Holiday cooking rules. And since I seem to have started off with one of the most complicated recipes possible, it’s all easy breezy from here on out. Two hours and I’ll be tucking into a big bowl a spoonful from Matt’s bowl, says he (after we licked the whole machine clean). Who doesn’t love ice cream in winter?

Just made toasted marshmallow ice cream w/ homemade marshmallows and an egg custard base. Wow. It reminds me of my first real egg custard in Maine.

Mom says if you’re going to make your own ice cream, you just *have* to do it up right with custard. Next up, sugar punkin’. Holiday cooking rules. And since I seem to have started off with one of the most complicated recipes possible, it’s all easy breezy from here on out. Two hours and I’ll be tucking into a big bowl a spoonful from Matt’s bowl, says he (after we licked the whole machine clean). Who doesn’t love ice cream in winter?